| InspectAPedia® | Question? Just ask us! |  InspectAPedia | |
Free Encyclopedia of Building & Environmental Inspection, Testing, Diagnosis, Repair | |||
Septic SystemsInspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website.
Septic system design, installation, maintenance & repair guides:
How to Install, inspect, troubleshoot & repair septic tanks & fields.
These septic system articles explain how to buy, inspect, install, test, diagnose maintain and repair septic tanks, drainfields, and all other components of all types of septic systems.
We discuss how septic systems work, and how to provide septic system care to avoid replacing the septic system unnecessarily.
We provide septic cleaning and septic maintenance procedures, septic inspection methods, septic repair guides, and septic system design information. Page top: a peat mound septic system in Two Harbors, MN.
We also provide a MASTER INDEX to this topic, or you can try the page top or bottom SEARCH BOX as a quick way to find information you need.
Installation, inspection, diagnosis, maintenance & repairHere we give in-depth information about conventional septic tanks, septic digesters, drain fields, soakaway beds, reed beds, seepage pits, cesspools, drywells, soakpits, and also septic pipes, and septic waste handling.
We describe and explain the need for and how to install alternative septic system designs for problem sites where the need is to save water or where it is difficult to dispose of septic waste.
We include tables for septic tanks: pumping frequency, septic tank size, septic tank design, and clearances between septic systems, wells, and other site features and boundaries.
This page organizes and links to our detailed septic system inspection, test, repair, and design articles, including our online septic systems book.
Septic testing class presentations, septic system photos, septic system design sketches, septic care tables, links to products and consultants are provided.
"How-To" Articles at our Septic System Information Website are in these groups: (these links are also at the ARTICLE INDEX the bottom of this article )
Shown above: a building main drain has just been connected to a concrete septic tank that has no yet been covered with backfill. [Click to enlarge any image]
To find what you need quickly, if you don't want to scroll through this index you are welcome to use the page top or bottom SEARCH BOX to search InspectApedia for specific articles and information.
We discuss just about every septic system topic and product at this website: septic tank and septic system drainfield or soakaway bed design, septic tank size, septic tank pumping frequency, septic tank cleaning, and septic tank inspection.
We also discuss cesspools and drywells, aerobic septic systems, septic system repairs, treatments, and additives or chemicals. If you find that something is missing from this website just CONTACT us and ask for it.
"Septic tanks" are what home owners or home buyers think of when buying or maintaining a home with a private septic system. But we should be thinking about the whole septic system - since the drain field or leach field makes up half of a typical septic system cost.
Septic tank care and septic tank cleaning need to be done on a regular frequency (we provide a septic tank pumping schedule table) in order to avoid ruining the drainfield.
Septic tank maintenance is not enough. Proper septic system design for the level of usage and soil conditions is critical if the system is going to have a long useful life.
We are also quite concerned with septic system health and safety since there are potential collapse hazards which can be fatal, and there are bacterial and pathogen hazards for both site occupants and for the environment if a septic system is not working properly.
The articles listed at this website form an extensive guide to septic systems care, inspection, testing, and installation. We welcome questions and suggestions for content.
On 2019-07-03 by (mod) - just cleaning out tree roots will not be a lasting septic system repair
Clearing the roots may get the waste system flowing again but I'm not optimistic that it's a long-term fixed since the same Roots will be fractions of an inch away on the other side of the pipe and will rapidly invade the pipes again.
More like what you're going to need to remove the trees or plants whose roots are invading the field and quite likely the field itself is going to need to be replaced. So without those repairs are not optimistic about the ongoing life if your septic system. Cost to Simply clear pipes is going to rain significantly depending on country and city where you live ease of access to the side length and accessibility of the piping but it certainly is going to be more than 500 and less than $10,000 just to do the clearing you can go ahead and do that but keep in mind that it's a Band-Aid
On 2019-07-03 by Deb
I am purchasing a home and during the septic inspection the system failed and it was found that the tank and seepage system were root bound. I have been told that the system will need to be cleared of roots. Is this an acceptable fix for the problem? The tank would be about 37 years old. And what would the cost range for a service of this type?
On 2019-06-20 by (mod) -
Sherrt
To protect reader trust we do not sell any product or service. You can find some septic experts in the experts directory whose link is given at the top of any of these pages. But most likely what you need is a local contractor so it would be perfectly reasonable to just search for plumbing and septic contractors near your country and city. I'll be glad to help further with specific questions about the nature of the work needed or repair options when you report what your contractor has seen and proposed.
On 2019-06-20 by Sherry Cook
@Linda,
Septic system failed need a contractor to come out field need to be repaired for drainage asap
On 2019-05-22 by (mod) -
Linda
The sprinkler heads that disperse effluent above ground are in effect marking the area of the "drainfield" for an aerobic septic system that uses that effluent disposal method
But if you are seeing standing water then the field is flooded and isn't working - it's time to call your aerobic septic maintenance company for inspection and repair. Let me know what you're told and we may be able to offer more comment.
On 2019-05-22 by Linda
Does the aerobic system have a drain field close to the sprinkler head, sprinkler works, but water standing around it
On 2019-05-16 by (mod) -
KC
The diagnosis of an alarm light on aerobics varies a bit by system brand and model but in general it's probably telling you you the air pump isn't working OR the sewage level is abonrmally high - meaning the effluent pump is not working or its control is stuck. It's time to call an aerobic septic service company.
Let me know what you're told and we may have further suggestions.
On 2019-05-10 by K Chance
I have a 7 year old lake house used about one week end a month and the red light is staying on on my aerobic septic system. What do I need to do?
On 2019-05-05 by (mod) -
I agree that it sounds as if water is leaking into the tank
On 2019-05-05 by Ellen
Have a 1000 gallon concrete holding tank that we had installed a couple of years ago. We were ready to hook our rv up to it. The tank was full of fairly clean water. The opening does sit in a low spot. Have a 12" plastic riser. Had it pumped out. Dug out around the riser and filled with rock around the opening and riser. After a full week of rain the tank has about a foot of water in it. This water looks muddier than the time before we had it pumped. Could it be that the riser wasn't sealed very good and that we need to add another riser?
On 2019-04-30 by (mod) -
I think we discussed this on another page. Certainly you can call your health department and before identifying yourself asking the question that you're asking me. I would think your health department would be quite concerned and would cooperate. After all they certainly can investigate for themselves.
On 2019-04-30 by Alfred's
I know of a D-box that has no bottom. It is within 50 feet of Hood Canal. Can the County Health Dept. be notified anonymously by concerned neighbors?
On 2019-04-03 by (mod) -
Chris:
Well sort-of. When a drainfield fails from normal use (i.e. not flooding, crushing, roots, etc) it's usually the soil around the edges of the trenches that has become occluded with a thick biomat that stops passing effluent.
If one simply opened the original trench to the original width and replaced pipes and perhaps gravel I see several serious issues:
1. if the biomat is left undisturbed the new trenches have no forward life
2. driving the machinery over the absorption bed in this manner compresses the soil, further damaging the ability of the fields to absorb effluent
So yeah you can replace a leachfield in its original area but to do so effectively you'll probably need a lot of additional excavation to break up and possibly even re-mix the biomat-clogged soil.
A better approach to discuss with your septic contractor *might* be to dig new trenches in the middle of the spaces between the original trenches.
The soil compression concern remains but you can place the new trenches parallel to but offset from the originals. At one side - left, right, or both, the final "new" trench will be in new ground if it fits.
On 2019-04-02 by Chris
Hi, I need to replace my leech field. When we had them installed 15 years ago, they were placed in the only location on my property that works with all setbacks. My question: is it possible to dig out the existing leech fields and re-use the same location? If not, what options do I have when no other location on my property works? Thank you for any/all advise.
On 2019-02-24 by (mod) -
Gaston
Take a look at the chamber or gravelless septic system designs and specifications found at
https://inspectapedia.com/septic/Gravelless_Septic_Design.php
GRAVELLESS SEPTIC SYSTEMS
On 2019-02-24 by gaston
i am replace my hold systeme for the new systeme b101 diffuser do not use rock , my question is this i was thinking to have 3 drain chanel of 40 feets each is it ok good for my house of 3 bed room and i leave in florida and how deep it have to be thanks in advance gaston
(Jan 22, 2014) Paul G said: Hey this is a great resource. Thanks.
(Feb 24, 2014) cyvrn8822@yahoo.com said: what size of septic system would be needed for a 5000 sure ft home?
Hi CYVRN
If you take a look in the ARTICLE INDEX given at the end of any of our septic system pages you'll find this article live link
SEPTIC TANK SIZE: septic tank size and capacity vs. usage determine the required septic tank size, calculate size of an existing septic tank
that will answer you - there is a bit more that needs to be said than just the size of a home - after all we might have a big house with a single occupant.
(Mar 16, 2014) debbie said:
We have a septic tank that is fairly new but every time it rains, no matter how lightly, our toilet won't flush correctly and when it rains all day we have the septic odor in our house but not outside and the toilet fills to the rim when you try to flush it.
Debbie it's a troubling question - it sounds as if rain runoff, perhaps from groundwater, surface runoff, or roof runoff is entering and flooding the septic tank, or worse, the drainfield. Even if the tank is new a failed older drainfield couild be at fault;
I'd ask your septic contractor to excavate and open the septic tank access ports to see if the tank level is flooding from surface runoff; And if you pump the tank and water runs back into the tank from the drainfield that'd diagnose a flooded drainfield. Either can back up into the house.
If the problem is really controlling surface runoff then you'll fix it by directing water away from the tank and drainfield.
See SEPTIC TANK BACK FLOODING or for drainfield flooding to read details.
(Mar 18, 2014) Kim Hall said:
What is the distance a storage tank for sewage be from a well. We have a cabin and space is limited.
Kim please see CLEARANCE DISTANCES, SEPTIC SYSTEM
(May 16, 2014) Fran said:
We own a lake home with a holding tank. We thought it was a septic when we purchased the home but our septic man told us it was a holding tank when he came to pump it out.. We have it pumped regularly but we only see one tank. Is there a second tank? How would we find it, if so? We see no holes, pipes, nothing going into this tank when it's open for cleaning.
Also, our home was built in 1962. Is there any way to get the sewer & drain plots for this house? And, are holding tanks legal for a permanent residence?
Fran, your local building department might have plans on file, but often those agencies don't. Even if there was a filed plan, we can't know if the plan shows what was approved or instead, what was actually built. Nor do we know what repairs or changes may have rearranged things in the intervening decades.
This article shows how to find buried septic tanks and piping
(June 11, 2014) wanda said:
I have a filter bed septic tank, water was coming on the top of the ground for about a month. Then it stopped, and my toilet stop flushing, and I couldn't wash clothes. We took the lid off the sewer and it was filled up with alot of water(it's only 5 years old and it's a 500gal.
Sounds as if the outlet is blocked or the field is blocked. It's time to investigate the effluent absorption system or drainfield. Meanwhile stop using water as much as you can and pump the septic tank - that will give a few days of relief during which the problem can be diagnosed by your septic contractor or septic engineer.
(July 12, 2014) matt with the d box leak! said:
New septic put in 6 years ago. I have a pump chamber after my septic tanks (twin 750 gals), the chamber pump (100 or 150 gal ) kicks on when the level gets high enough. The grey water is pumped to my d- box about 25 feet. The d box has 2 outflow pipes leading to a leach field with baffles etc.
The d box seems level and the problem is no matter what we have used to keep the cover on the box ( a piece of blue stone 1 " thick as it sits in the middle of a brick patio ) the d box leaks. Again on the 4th of July with 12 -15 folks over ( part of my problem?) ,
I heard the pump chamber kick on, 15 seconds later could smell it and then about 3 to 5 ounces of water came out. The leaks came from the corners opposite the inflow.
I can't get it to stop leaking, every time the pump chamber kicks on. This is the 3 time in 6 years that I am faced with a dbox with a cover ( modified cover since its blue stone ) that leaks. If we cement the blue stone onto the d box how can this keep happening?
Can the water just "eat" the condrete seal over a year? pls let me know by email when there is a response to my question - - many THANKS! matttheskier@gmail.com
Matt,
You could convert to a more-easily sealed D-box but I don't think that's the problem. I suspect that the D-box is too small AND that with the small size, the effluent (it's not graywater) is not being accepted into the drainfield rapidly-enough.
The result is the pump is filling the D-box faster than its outflow rate, causing backup and odor complaints.
A much larger D-box, sufficient to receive and then drain by gravity into the drainfields the whole pump cycle volume would be one approach that may tempt you but I don't recommend it.
Rather, you need to look at the inflow capacity of the drainfield - it may be that the drainfield is under-sized, or worse, that it is poorly designed / installed and is flooding, or possibly the line balancing openings in the D-box that balance flow into different drainfield lines are too small.
In sum, if you watch the D-box when the effluent pump cycles you'll probably see that aroudn 125 gallons of effluent are surging into the D-box and overflowing it because the in-flow rate is faster than the outflow rate.\
If the D-box overflows only at the very end of the pump cycle you could see if your pumping system rate can be adjusted to send effluent to the D-box more slowly.
Matt
Please see our article on Distribution box (drop box) install, inspect, troubleshoot & repair advice at D-BOX INSTALL REPAIR where I will include your question and our comments
(July 26, 2014) Steve said:
I have a two compartment septic tank. The outlet end tank is smaller then the inlet tank . my inlet tee is 16 inches long down the tank . The outlet drain pipe is in the centre of the bottom of the tank . How far or how long should my drain pipe be up in the tank ?
Maybe if you send me a sketch I can try to find an answer; from just the e-text I'm a bit confused about what's installed. Generally however the septic tank drain outlet is lower than the bottom of the inlet pipe's bottom surface.
...
Continue reading at SEPTIC MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS or select a topic from the closely-related articles below, or see the complete ARTICLE INDEX.
Or see SEPTIC SYSTEM INSPECT DIAGNOSE REPAIR FAQs - questions & answers posted originally at this page.
SEPTIC SYSTEM INSPECT DIAGNOSE REPAIR at InspectApedia.com - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice.
Or use the SEARCH BOX found below to Ask a Question or Search InspectApedia
...
Try the search box just below, or if you prefer, post a question or comment in the Comments box below and we will respond promptly.
Search the InspectApedia website
Click to Show or Hide Citations & References
Carson, Dunlop & Associates Ltd., 120 Carlton Street Suite 407, Toronto ON M5A 4K2. Tel: (416) 964-9415 1-800-268-7070 Email: info@carsondunlop.com. The firm provides professional
HOME INSPECTION SERVICES and also extensive HOME INSPECTION EDUCATION and home inspection-related PUBLICATIONS. Alan Carson is a past president of ASHI, the American Society of Home Inspectors.
The HOME REFERENCE BOOK - the Encyclopedia of Homes, Carson Dunlop & Associates, Toronto, Ontario, 25th Ed., 2012, is a bound volume of more than 450 illustrated pages that assist home inspectors and home owners in the inspection and detection of problems on buildings. The text is intended as a reference guide to help building owners operate and maintain their home effectively. Field inspection worksheets are included at the back of the volume. 
